![]() ![]() Also, if you put one of those pedal stops in. Even still, there are things that need to be taken into account when screwing around with your clutch, you dont want to break anything or cause over-wear on your clutch disk or plate. could be a bad wheel or maybe incorrect installation. There is someone around here who has installed either the upgraded clutch and/or the lightweight flywheel, BUT they did say that they were having issues with chatter in the clutch wheel and its brand new. I know that clutch masters makes aftermarket clutch disks and flywheels for our car. Alot of time in order to get a shorter throw on the clutch you need to replace the cylinder and the clutch itself with an aftermarket one. you adjust too far and the clutch wont disengage when you release the pedal. Most cars running a stock clutch and trans are going to have a limited amount of adjustment. We welded the hole closed and followed the same procedure for the remaining screws.You may want to be careful with that. With the welds in place, one sheet metal screw was removed, and the hole was chamfered with a 5/16-inch drill bit. After spraying a small amount of weld-through primer onto the repair plate and door jamb, we tack welded the plate. The instructions specified to tack weld each plate corner at the cutout opening, so we again installed the protective shielding and blankets on the Dart before welding. Pleased knowing the door post could be correctly positioned, we removed the post and proceeded to the next step. The door closed without excessive effort, released cleanly, and matched the height of the quarter panel. However, after a few minutes, we had the post adequately located. There was plenty of adjustment due to the free movement of the caged nut. Above Right: While supporting the repair plate against the backside of the door jamb, each outer hole’s location was marked on the plate.īefore the welding started, we installed the door striker post. The rear seat, window crank handle, armrest, panel, and vapor barrier were removed. Above Center: We needed access to the quarter panel’s inside. The paint was removed in all the areas we would be welding. The raised pad was flush with the cutout area of the remaining door jamb.Ībove Left: The hole’s corners were squared off with a file. The tightened screws drew the plate securely to the inside of the door jamb. Next, the plate was slipped into the back side of the door jamb, and with the outer holes lined up, we secured the plate to the jamb with four #8 sheet metal screws. We cleaned the plate and the inside of the door jamb with paint prep and then shot each area with a weld-through primer. The repair plate had one edge of the nut cage welded to the plate, so after slipping the original nut into the cage and spraying the area with weld-through primer, we welded the other side of the cage to secure the nut. We utilized a drill press to make the holes. The instruction sheet suggested using a #29 (0.136-inch) drill bit to make the holes, but we used a more common 5/64-inch (0.140-inch) bit. We removed the plate and center punched all four marks. Above Right: The broken segment (left) was retrieved from the quarter panel. Above Center: The nut had to be removed from the cage on the back side of the door jamb sheet metal. The lines formed a 3- X 3.5-inch square that we would need to cut out of the door jamb.Ībove Left: The 3- by 3.5-inch area of sheet metal was cut cleanly from the door jamb. Then, with the Sharpie, we marked a tangent line between the outer edges of the four inner holes. After removing the template, we drilled each mark with a ¼-inch drill bit. The template had eight points that we center punched. The template followed the contours of the door jamb, and once installed, we ensured the door post hole of the template was located over the existing hole in the door jamb. We placed a Sharpie reference mark six inches from the jig point and began taping the template onto the door jamb. Next, the door jamb windlace trim was pulled back to reveal the pinch weld jig point. We cut out the template and folded it at each labeled fold line. Above Right: The template was formed to the contours of the door jamb and taped in place. Above Center: We measured 6-inches from the factory jig point on the pinch weld to mark the point to affix the template. Above Left: We cut the template from the instruction sheet. ![]()
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